1. Blackheads

Let's face it! Blackhead removal seems to be the most difficult part of maintaining healthy skin. There's no easy way to get rid of these annoying blemishes. However, there are some helpful tips to prevent and get rid of blackheads when necessary.

What is a Blackhead?

Blackheads are technically referred to as open comedones. These bumps are often indented and may look like tiny plugs. The confusion over blackheads and whiteheads has to do with the fact that blackheads accompany oily skin where whiteheads could be present on oily or dry skin.

What Causes Blackheads?

A blackhead is caused by excess oil that has clogged a pore. This clog occurs when the built-up oil is unable to flow to the surface of the skin due to a misshapen or impaired pore and dead skin cells blocking the way. When the pore is open, the oil is exposed to oxygen, which reacts and turns it a dark color, resulting in a black head.

• Hormones are the leading cause of increased oil production. An increase in the male hormones, androgens, will increase the natural production of oil in your skin causing more oil to build up in the pores, often times resulting in the appearance of black heads.
• The next big culprit in blackhead formation is the use of skin-care products or make-up. These products will mix with your body's natural oil and add to the build-up that can block pores.
• Whitehead and blackhead pimple formation seems to be a predisposed condition that is aggravated or increased when combined with the above toxins.

2. Blackhead Prevention

There are many things that you can do to prevent blackheads from appearing on your face. Most involve cleansing and some require the use of medications.

• Avoid using creamy, greasy, and thick (emollient) products. This alone will greatly lessen your chances of sprouting blackheads.
• Use a gentle and water-soluble acne cleanser.
• DO NOT use bar soap!!! The ingredients that hold soap in a bar form can clog the pores in your skin. They can also cause skin cells to flake off prematurely and clog the pores. If you have dry skin you will need to use a cleanser that has a bit of moisturizer in it, but be careful! The excess moisturizers can cause an increase in oil on your skin.
• Exfoliate to eliminate dead skin cells. If there are no skin cells to clog the pores, the natural oil is able to flow through freely. Skin Exfoliation also removes the built up dead cells from inside the pores that cause them to become misshapen and more-easily clogged. Using an skin exfoliant that contains 1% or 2% (BHA or Salicylic Acid) will penetrate the lining of the pore. If you are unable to use BHAs, you could use products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), however these acids are only good for surface exfoliation because they do not penetrate the pore lining.
• Absorb excess oil. If you have oily skin, try using a clay maskthat does not contain mint, peppermint or other irritating ingredients. This will absorb the oil that may clog the poor. If you have dry skin, this is not necessary because pimples on dry skin are caused by oil inside the pore, not on the surface of the skin. Also, oil-absorbing papers may help to reduce the oil in your pores.

• Visit your dermatologist. Retinoids, which are a form of Vitamin A, can help regulate the pore shape which will keep oil flowing normally. The most common retinoids are tretinoin and adapalene, found in prescriptions such as Avita, Renova, Retin-A, Tazorac, and Differin.
• Other medications. Hormone blockers and low-dose birth control pills can lower levels of androgens (the male hormone) and Accutane should be discussed with your physician in severe cases of oily skin and breakouts.

3. Blackhead Removal

Though the best way to remove blackheads is an area of contention, the most common method for getting rid of blackheads is to gently squeeze them. Removing the "stuff" inside of the blackhead helps the skin because you are relieving the pressure which causes the damage. We know it can be nearly impossible to leave a blemish alone so here are some tips for gentle blackhead removal:

1. Use a mild scrub or to remove any dead cells and expose the blackhead.
2. Pat your face dry.
3. Place a slightly warm compress on your face for approximately 10-15 minutes in order to soften the blackhead, making it easier to remove.
4. Pat your face dry again.
5. Place a piece of tissue on the tip of each finger to avoid slipping, which could tear the skin and cause further damage.
6. Gently apply even pressure to both sides of the blackhead by pushing down, then up around the blemish. You're trying to apply the pressure from *underneath* the blackhead.

Only attempt this once or twice. If it does not "pop", you may bruise the skin, make the blackhead worse, and could cause scarring.

PORE STRIPS: Using pore strips to remove blackheads is not recommended for many reasons:

• The warnings on the box tell you not to use them on swollen, irritated, sunburned skin; not to use them on excessively dry skin; and not to use them on any area other than the nose. Also, the warnings state that if the strip is too difficult to remove, you should add water and remove carefully.
• Removing the superficial blackheads, along with some healthy skin, will only help temporarily.
• Repeated use of pore strips can cause irritation and future breakouts.
• The adhesive on the strips can tear or injure the skin, especially if you are using an acne medication such as those listed above, or if you naturally have thin skin due to psoriasis, rosacea, or seborrhea.

Vacuum blackhead removers and blackhead extractors are not recommended for the same reasons as the pore strips. Because blacheads are caused by excessive oil production clogging the pores, the most effective way to get rid of blackheads is to control oil on the face by using mild cleansers and by balancing your hormones.